It only makes sense that the trend is to use cosmeceuticals in the branding or advertising in the beauty care division. How many people will see “ceuticals” in a name and think pharmaceutical and conclude it must have some secret ingredient consisting of a chemical or chemical combination that actually works? Combining ingredients that have a medicinal or drug type benefit only enhances the sound of a product leaving many to think it will be of higher quality. It’s a very aggressive market and a lucrative one if you can find that one product that will provide some other benefit aside from concealing or superficially enhancing.
Some of these products tout the claims of containing peptides, vitamins, minerals, growth factors and not to forget, “secret, patented ingredients.” Just like other natural claiming products, the FDA does not regulate these products so they can make any claim they want but the beauty of the internet is, you can always look up reviews, adverse events and complaints. However, when reviewing products, always be weary of the reviewer and/or site as these are mostly not true, independent reviewers.
Some examples of cosmeceuticals include alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, vitamins and antioxidans.
Alpha hydroxy acids are used often in chemical peels. Products containing alpha hydroxy acids sold over the counter can only have a 10% or less concentration. Cosmetologists or others licensed, use products containing anywhere from 20 to 30% concentration. The effect is simliar to microabrasion which is used to minimize fine line while giving a more youthful appearance. The treatments will take one to three applications and must be repeated every three to six months for maximum benefit. Doctors can use concentrations between 50 to 70%. Alpha is best for skin with sun damage and not acne prone.
Beta hydroxy acids differ from alpha is in the solubility. Alpha is water soluble and beta is oil soluble. Beta can penetrate into the pores and remove the dead cells that build up over time. Beta is best used for oily skin proned to blackheads and whiteheads.
Antioxidants are derived from vitamins and attach to free radicals which may help to repair skin damage.
I was curious what the readers on the Oprah forum would state about the best anti-aging cream and although there were only 30 or so responses, more tilted towards olive oil. The rest varied from Oil of Olay to Arbonne to organic products. I think I’ll stick with olive oil for now and wonder when it will turn into the next cosmeceutical product.